For a few weeks last fall, I was eating a deflated rectangle made of cottage cheese, eggs and shredded Cheddar every day for lunch. When this unholy concoction first came out of the oven, it would seem so fluffy and filled with promise; warm and buttery yellow. By the time this egg bake made it to my plate, it fell into a sad lump. It always tasted fine; I’ve had much worse. But it’s certainly not what I would have chosen to eat regularly if I had not listened to the siren song of #proteinfluencers.
Protein has been the hot macronutrient for a while now. Longtime readers may recall that I gently mocked my husband for his protein obsession back in 2023. He had been listening to health podcasts and social media posts, and various protein powders made their way into our pantry. In the two years since I wrote that piece, protein has become even more ubiquitous. This month, The Wall Street Journal noted that “In the year to Feb. 22, the fastest-growing grocery items were those with the most protein per serving — 25 grams or more, according to NielsenIQ data.” The extended Kardashian clan, who never met a trend they couldn’t capitalize on, is in the mix. Khloe Kardashian just announced a new line of protein popcorn called Khloud.
Protein-forward diets are easy to market because they appeal to both men and women. Dieting in general is female coded, but men can focus on protein without feeling emasculated because body builders do it, and it comes in the form of literal red meat (hello beef tallow, my old friend) and gym-rat powders.
In general, I try to eat in a way that makes me feel physically and mentally good. I thought that I had grown beyond fads and that I could not be swayed. I try to resist outside influences because I was raised on a steady diet of teen magazines and “America’s Next Top Model” and the fiction that celery is a negative calorie food. I don’t need to flood my brain with any more self-loathing nonsense.
Still, I don’t want to be ignorant of ways to keep myself fully functional. I turned 43 this year. I’m competitive about my athletic prowess. I’m trying to get my fastest mile run under 7 minutes. I have been reading about how muscle mass starts to decline in your 30s — especially for women — and consuming enough protein is essential for building new muscle.
I’m also not immune to social media, in part because it’s my job to analyze what is popular and how trends are sold to a captive audience. But I am also part of the audience.
